Pool tables come in four standard sizes: 7-foot (bar size), 8-foot (home size), 8.5-foot (mid-size professional), and 9-foot (regulation tournament size). The size refers to the length of the playing surface, not the overall table dimensions. Choosing the right pool table size depends on your available room space, skill level, and intended use. A critical consideration is ensuring adequate cue clearance—you need 5 feet of space around the table perimeter for comfortable play (58" standard cue length plus player stance).
| Table Size | Playing Surface | Overall Dimensions (approx) | Typical Use | Ratio |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 7-Foot (Bar Table) | 78" × 39" (198 × 99 cm) |
88" × 49" (224 × 124 cm) |
Bars, pubs, small rooms, casual play | 2:1 ratio |
| 8-Foot (Home Table) | 88" × 44" (224 × 112 cm) |
98" × 54" (249 × 137 cm) |
Home recreation rooms, most popular size | 2:1 ratio |
| 8.5-Foot (Pro-Am) | 92" × 46" (234 × 117 cm) |
102" × 56" (259 × 142 cm) |
Serious players, leagues, large homes | 2:1 ratio |
| 9-Foot (Tournament) | 100" × 50" (254 × 127 cm) |
110" × 60" (279 × 152 cm) |
Professional tournaments, pool halls, regulation size | 2:1 ratio |
| 10-Foot (Snooker) | 112" × 56" (284 × 142 cm) |
122" × 66" (310 × 168 cm) |
Snooker (British billiards), oversized pools | 2:1 ratio |
| 12-Foot (Snooker) | 140" × 70" (356 × 178 cm) |
150" × 80" (381 × 203 cm) |
Full-size snooker (regulation), British clubs | 2:1 ratio |
| Table Size | Minimum Room (48" cue) | Recommended Room (58" cue) | Comfortable Room (58" cue + clearance) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 7-Foot | 16' × 12'8" (4.9 × 3.9 m) |
17'8" × 13'8" (5.4 × 4.2 m) |
18'4" × 14'4" (5.6 × 4.4 m) |
| 8-Foot | 16'10" × 13'2" (5.1 × 4.0 m) |
18'6" × 14'2" (5.6 × 4.3 m) |
19'2" × 14'10" (5.8 × 4.5 m) |
| 8.5-Foot | 17'2" × 13'6" (5.2 × 4.1 m) |
18'10" × 14'6" (5.7 × 4.4 m) |
19'6" × 15'2" (5.9 × 4.6 m) |
| 9-Foot | 17'10" × 14' (5.4 × 4.3 m) |
19'6" × 15' (5.9 × 4.6 m) |
20'2" × 15'8" (6.1 × 4.8 m) |
| 10-Foot (Snooker) | 19'2" × 14'8" (5.8 × 4.5 m) |
20'10" × 15'8" (6.4 × 4.8 m) |
21'6" × 16'4" (6.6 × 5.0 m) |
| Table Size | Slate Thickness | One-Piece Slate | Three-Piece Slate | Total Weight (with frame) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 7-Foot | 3/4" or 1" | 400-500 lbs (181-227 kg) |
500-600 lbs (227-272 kg) |
600-700 lbs |
| 8-Foot | 1" | 500-650 lbs (227-295 kg) |
650-800 lbs (295-363 kg) |
700-1,000 lbs |
| 8.5-Foot | 1" | 550-700 lbs (249-318 kg) |
700-900 lbs (318-408 kg) |
800-1,100 lbs |
| 9-Foot | 1" | 650-800 lbs (295-363 kg) |
800-1,000 lbs (363-454 kg) |
1,000-1,300 lbs |
Playing surface: The cloth-covered slate bed between the cushion noses (actual area where balls roll). This is the measurement used to name table sizes ("7-foot table" = 7-foot playing length). Overall dimensions: Total table size including rails, cushions, and aprons (adds ~10-12 inches to length and width). Example: 8-foot table playing surface = 88" × 44", overall dimensions = 98" × 54". Why it matters: Use overall dimensions to verify table fits through doorways and into room. Use playing surface for understanding game play and ball dynamics.
48-inch cue: Short cue (4 feet), used in tight spaces, kids' cues. 52-inch cue: Standard "house cue" in many bars. 57-58 inch cue: Standard full-size cue (most common, ~4.75 feet). Used by most recreational players. Why cue length matters for room size: Need cue length + player stance (~12 inches) clearance from table rails to wall. Example: 58" cue + 12" stance = 70" (5 feet 10 inches) clearance needed.
General guideline: Maintain 5 feet clearance around entire table perimeter. Calculation: 58" standard cue + 2" ball diameter + player stance/backswing = ~60 inches (5 feet). Exceptions: Can reduce to 4 feet minimum with 48" short cues (cramped but playable). Can use "short stick" for corner/wall shots (most serious players keep one). Comfortable play: 5.5-6 feet clearance ideal (allows full backswing, spectators, walking around table).
Playing surface: 78" × 39" (6.5 feet × 3.25 feet). Room requirement: Minimum 16' × 12'8" (58" cue). Comfortable: 17'8" × 13'8". Advantages: Fits smaller rooms (most common home size for space constraints), affordable ($800-$2,500), easier to maintain, good for beginners and casual play. Disadvantages: Not regulation size (poor training for competitive play), faster gameplay (balls reach pockets quicker, less strategic), considered "small" by serious players. Best for: Basement game rooms under 14×16 feet, apartments, families with casual interest, budget-conscious buyers. Weight: 600-700 lbs (manageable for second-floor installation with proper support).
Playing surface: 88" × 44" (7.33 feet × 3.67 feet). Room requirement: Minimum 16'10" × 13'2". Comfortable: 19'2" × 14'10". Advantages: Most popular home size (sweet spot between size and space), closely resembles tournament play (better practice), widely available (more model options), good resale value. Disadvantages: Requires 17×14 feet minimum room (larger than many think), heavier than 7-foot (harder installation), more expensive. Best for: Dedicated game rooms, serious recreational players, homes with adequate space (14×17 feet minimum), best all-around choice for most buyers. Weight: 700-1,000 lbs (requires professional moving).
Playing surface: 100" × 50" (8.33 feet × 4.17 feet). Room requirement: Minimum 17'10" × 14'. Comfortable: 20'2" × 15'8". Advantages: Official tournament/regulation size (exact practice for competition), slower gameplay (more strategic, professional feel), impressive centerpiece, highest quality available. Disadvantages: Requires very large room (20×16 feet minimum for comfort), expensive ($2,500-$10,000+), heavy (1,000-1,300 lbs, structural concerns), intimidating for beginners (larger table = harder shots). Best for: Serious competitive players, large game rooms or pool halls, dedicated billiards enthusiasts, homes with 18×16 feet+ room. Not recommended: Casual players, space-constrained homes, beginners.
Playing surface: 92" × 46" (7.67 feet × 3.83 feet). Room requirement: Minimum 17'2" × 13'6". Comfortable: 19'6" × 15'2". Advantages: Bridge between home (8') and tournament (9') sizes, closer to regulation than 8-foot for serious practice, slightly more affordable than 9-foot. Disadvantages: Not a standard size (limited availability), still requires large room, awkward size for resale (less common). Best for: Serious players with room too small for 9-foot table, those wanting closest-to-regulation size that fits space. Availability: Less common than 7, 8, or 9-foot (special order from some manufacturers).
Short cues for walls: One or two walls can use 48" short cues (saves 10" per wall). Example: Corner placement allows two walls to use short cues. Obstructions: Columns, furniture, door swings reduce usable space. Add 6-12" buffer around obstructions. Low ceilings: Below 7'6" ceiling height interferes with overhead shots (bridge cue needed). Spectator space: Add 2-3 feet if table will have frequent spectators. Multiple tables: 4-5 feet between tables minimum (prevents cue interference).
Slate (highest quality): Natural stone (typically Italian or Brazilian), perfectly flat surface, 3/4" to 1" thick, heavy (300-800 lbs depending on size), one-piece or three-piece configuration, industry standard for quality tables. Advantages: Perfectly flat (won't warp), smooth ball roll, lasts lifetime, maintains value. Disadvantage: Extremely heavy, expensive. MDF / Wood (budget tables): Pressed wood or particle board, 1/2" to 1" thick, lightweight (100-200 lbs total table weight). Disadvantages: Warps over time, uneven ball roll, poor resale value, considered "toys" by serious players. Not recommended for serious play. Slatron (synthetic slate): Compressed synthetic material, mid-range weight and cost. Better than MDF, not as good as slate. Acceptable for casual players on budget.
One-piece slate: Single slab covering entire playing surface. Advantages: Perfectly flat (no seams), preferred by professionals. Disadvantages: Extremely heavy (400-800 lbs), difficult installation (can't navigate stairs/doorways easily), risk of cracking during move. Best for: Ground-floor installations, permanent placement, highest-end tables. Three-piece slate: Three slate sections joined with beeswax/putty and leveled. Advantages: Easier transportation (each piece 200-300 lbs), fits through doorways and stairs, can be leveled precisely. Disadvantages: Seams require expert installation (poor leveling = uneven roll). Best for: Most residential installs, upstairs rooms, movable tables. Quality difference: Properly installed three-piece slate performs identically to one-piece.
Material: Natural gum rubber (highest quality, tournament standard), synthetic rubber (mid-range, 10-15 year lifespan), cheap rubber (budget tables, 3-5 years before hardening). Profile: K-55 profile (1955 standard, most common), K-66 profile (higher nose, higher ball rebound). Signs of quality: Firm, consistent rebound (test with ball bounce), no dead spots, uniform height. Replacement: Cushions harden over time (15-25 years typical lifespan for quality rubber)—replacement costs $300-$800.
Worsted wool (tournament quality): Tightly woven, smooth, fast play, durable, expensive ($200-$400), brands: Simonis, Championship Tour. Woolen cloth (standard): Napped finish (fuzzy), slower play, less expensive ($100-$200), most common on home tables. Speed: Worsted cloth 20-30% faster ball speed than woolen. Colors: Traditional green (most common), tournament blue, burgundy, tan, black available. Lifespan: Residential use: 10-20 years. Commercial use: 1-3 years. Re-felting costs: $300-$600 (materials + labor).
Pool tables require expert installation: Slate weighs 300-1,000 lbs (dangerous DIY project). Three-piece slate must be leveled within 1/1000 inch (specialized tools needed). Cloth stretching requires technique (wrinkles or too-tight = uneven play). Frame assembly and rail installation precise. Cost: $300-$800 professional installation. DIY risks: Cracked slate (replacement $500-$2,000), uneven playing surface (requires re-level $200-$400), damaged cloth (replacement $200-$500), personal injury from heavy lifting. Recommendation: ALWAYS hire professional installer, especially for slate tables.
Weight capacity: Residential floors designed for 40-50 lbs per square foot. 8-foot table (900 lbs) on 54 sq ft footprint = 17 lbs per sq ft (safe for all floors). 9-foot table on second floor: verify floor joists adequate (older homes may need reinforcement). Level floor: Floor must be reasonably level (within 1/2" over table footprint). Installer uses shims to level table legs. Severely unlevel floors (1"+) may need subfloor work. Surface: Concrete (basement) = ideal, perfectly stable. Hardwood or tile = good. Carpet = acceptable (use hardboard under legs to distribute weight). Avoid: Unlevel floors, soft/unstable surfaces, outdoor/uncovered areas (humidity warps wood).
Humidity and temperature affect table: Wood frame: Expands/contracts with humidity (causes cloth wrinkles, affects rail alignment). Cloth: Moisture absorption changes playing speed. Ideal conditions: 40-60% relative humidity, 60-75°F temperature, climate-controlled room year-round. Avoid: Unheated garages (seasonal temperature swings), damp basements without dehumidifier, rooms with seasonal use (cabins, lake houses without climate control). Solutions: Dehumidifier for damp basements, humidifier for dry climates, central HVAC for stable conditions.
7-foot tables: Budget (MDF): $400-$1,000. Mid-range (slate): $1,200-$2,500. Quality (slate): $2,000-$4,000. 8-foot tables: Budget (MDF): $600-$1,500. Mid-range (slate): $2,000-$4,000. Premium (slate): $3,500-$7,000. High-end: $6,000-$15,000+. 9-foot tables: Entry-level: $2,500-$4,500. Quality: $4,000-$8,000. Professional grade: $7,000-$20,000+. Price factors: Slate quality and thickness, cushion quality (gum rubber vs synthetic), cloth quality (worsted vs woolen), wood craftsmanship and finish, brand reputation (Brunswick, Olhausen, Diamond).
Advantages: 50-70% savings vs new, quality slate tables retain value, often includes accessories (cues, rack, balls). Disadvantages: Moving/installation costs $300-$800 (may equal purchase price for free tables), unknown condition (slate cracks, worn cushions, damaged felt), limited warranty or none. Inspection tips: Check slate for cracks (lift corner of felt), test cushion rebound (firm, consistent bounce), check for level (roll balls slowly—should stop, not drift), examine cloth (worn areas, tears), verify all parts present (pockets, rails, legs). Price guide (used): 7-foot slate: $400-$1,200. 8-foot slate: $800-$2,500. 9-foot slate: $1,500-$5,000. Best deals: Free tables requiring moving (verify slate condition first—cracked slate worthless).
Re-felting: Every 10-20 years (residential) = $300-$600. Cushion replacement: Every 15-25 years = $300-$800. Accessories: Cue sticks ($30-$300 each), balls ($30-$200 per set), triangle rack ($10-$50), wall rack ($30-$150), cue case ($30-$200), chalk ($5-$20), table cover ($50-$200). Maintenance supplies: Cloth brush ($10-$30), table cleaner ($10-$20). Professional maintenance: Annual leveling check (optional): $100-$200.
Mistake: Purchasing 9-foot table for 18×15 foot room (minimum clearance met but not comfortable). Problem: Constant frustration using short cues, can't take full shots near walls, claustrophobic feel, limited spectator space, difficult bank shots near walls. Solution: Always leave 5-6 feet clearance minimum. If room is borderline, choose next size down. Better to have comfortable 8-foot table than cramped 9-foot.
Mistake: Ordering table without measuring doorways, hallways, and stairs. Problem: Table won't fit through 32-36" standard doorways (overall table width 54-60"), can't navigate stairs or tight corners, expensive return/reorder. Solution: Three-piece slate tables can navigate most doorways (slate pieces 30×40" typical). One-piece slate requires large access (6+ feet wide minimum). Measure all access points before ordering: doorways, hallways, stairwell width/turns, basement door access.
Mistake: Buying MDF table to save $500-$1,000 (thinking it's "good enough"). Problem: Warps within 2-5 years (uneven ball roll, poor play), no resale value (worthless when replacing), regret purchase within months (frustration with play quality). Solution: ONLY buy slate tables. If budget is limited, buy used slate table instead of new MDF. Slate tables last 50-100+ years. MDF tables last 3-10 years before becoming unusable.
Mistake: Attempting DIY installation to save $300-$500. Problem: Cracked slate (unrepairable, $800-$2,000 replacement), uneven table (balls roll to one side, frustrating gameplay), injured back from lifting 300-800 lbs, improperly stretched cloth (wrinkles and bumps). Solution: Professional installation is non-negotiable for slate tables. Cost ($300-$800) is small percentage of table investment ($2,000-$10,000). Includes insurance/warranty on installation work.
Answer: Depends on room size and use. Small room (under 14×17 feet): 7-foot table. Medium room (14×17 to 17×19 feet): 8-foot table (most popular home size). Large room (18×20+ feet): 9-foot table (tournament size). Always prioritize room clearance—better to have comfortable smaller table than cramped large table.
Answer: Minimum 16'10" × 13'2" with 48" short cues. Recommended 18'6" × 14'2" with 58" standard cues (allows full stroke on all shots). Comfortable 19'2" × 14'10" (includes spectator space and walkways). Calculation: table length (98") + (2 × cue length 58") + (2 × stance 12") = 238" (19'10") length.
Yes, usually. Standard residential floors support 40-50 lbs per square foot. Pool tables weigh 15-25 lbs per square foot (safe for most floors). Verify: Floor joists adequate for weight (older homes pre-1950 may need reinforcement, consult structural engineer). Access: Three-piece slate tables fit through standard doorways and stairs. One-piece slate requires 6+ foot wide access (rarely fits upstairs). Recommendation: Hire professional installer familiar with second-floor installations.
Answer: One-piece: Single slate slab (400-800 lbs), perfectly flat with no seams, difficult installation (won't fit through doorways), risk of cracking during move. Three-piece: Three slate sections (200-300 lbs each), joined with beeswax and leveled, easier transportation (fits through doorways), requires expert leveling. Performance: Properly installed three-piece performs identically to one-piece. Recommendation: Three-piece for residential installation (easier access), one-piece only for ground-floor permanent installations.
Slate tables: 50-100+ years with proper maintenance (slate doesn't wear out, framework lasts decades). Components needing replacement: Cloth every 10-20 years ($300-$600), cushions every 15-25 years ($300-$800), pockets occasionally (wear/tear). MDF/wood tables: 3-10 years before warping makes play unacceptable (not worth repairing—better to replace). Best investment: Quality slate table lasts multiple lifetimes, excellent resale value.
Answer: Depends on usage. For casual/family play: 7-foot table perfectly adequate, easier fits in smaller homes, less intimidating for beginners, lower cost. For serious/competitive players: 7-foot table considered too small (poor practice for tournament play, less strategic gameplay). Recommendation: If space allows (14×17+ feet room), choose 8-foot table for better long-term satisfaction. If space-constrained (under 14×17 feet), 7-foot table better than no table.